Gaspe Peninsula Day 7

It rained all night and into the morning but we took our time getting ready to hit the road and by then the rain was intermittent. Typically it rained when we were driving and was fine when we stopped, so pretty ideal considering.

Our first stop was at a beach called Pabos Mills where the red cliffs and sand were very much like Prince Edward Island but with a few palapas for shade! At some point this must have been a popular spot as there were train tracks heading out to it but the tracks are now covered with driftwood.

Nexr was Port Daniels, with a magnificent 1899 home that is now used at Town Hall, Library and Museum. Unfortunately as it was Sunday it was closed.

Paspebiac was historically a very important centre for cod fishing. We keep hearing about the importance of Charles Robin to the area, and this is where he has a significant centre of operation. It was his insight that led to the identification of a significant business opportunity to the abundant cod in the area if they only had access to salt to cure it for export. So he arranged to bring in it from Jersey (Channel Islands) and set up a network of trade channels. The Paspebiac site consists of numerous buildings reflecting drying sites, cooperage to make the barrels, forge and a 5 storey warehouse that was once the largest wooden structure in North America. Unfortunately most of Charles Robins buildings burned in 1964 so the remaining buildings actually belonged to a competitor.

In Bonaventure we found an Acadian Museum, devoted to telling the story of the Acadians who settled in the area following their Expulsion from Nova Scotia by the English. Apparently 15% of Quebecers can trace some level of Acadian ancestry. The museum is well worth a visit, and we found it particularly interesting having 2 years ago visited Grand Pre in Nova Scotia and seen the Acadian Cross marking where they were forced on board ships.

Next up was Duthie Point which represents the contributions from the United Empire Loyalist who settled in the New Richmond area of Quebec when they fled the US. There is a collection of buildings from the area and during the tourist season they have interpretive guides.

Carleton-sur-mer is a delight. The long waterfront is lovely but the scenery we have discovered is most unexpected. First we drove up Mount St. Joseph, which is quite the drive! The warning about the grade being between 13 and 32% almost made us turn back, but we persevered and the view over the town and the Bay of Chaleurs was well worth it. We also discovered 5 GeoDomes tucked away at the top of the mountain, which you can rent, not to mention a church! Coming back down from the mountain was an adventure as well and I had to pull off periodically to let the brakes cool off. Plus we saw deer in the side of the road!

Our last bit of luck was timing a trip out along the lighthouse quai to coincide with a gentle, very colourful sunset.